Beach Safety
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THE SAFETY INFORMATION ON THIS PAGE IS VERY SIMILAR TO THE SAFETY INFORMATION FOUND WITHIN THE "SURF-SCHOOL" PAGES, HOWEVER THIS PAGE IS WRITTEN WITH THE MORE GENERAL BATHER IN MIND.
The author accepts no responsibilities for any accidents or injuries or fatalities which may arise as a result of using the advice given.
You should read this page before entering the water....
Before entering the water you need to know about accessing the
conditions and not putting yourself at undue risk. The ideal conditions for surfing /
surf-bathing would be smallish waves (under 3 feet) breaking on sand in summer and with a
lifeguard on duty! The problem with this ideal is that it means crowds! Needless to say,
you should also be a reasonably good swimmer.
SURFING / SURF-BATHING -THE RIGHT CONDITIONS
For swimmers the safest conditions would be when the surf is completely flat however that is often not the case. Totally flat conditions actually make the sea a pretty boring place!
For surfing the shape of the surf is in fact far more important than the size.
Good quality waves are the product of groundswell travelling from an area of bad weather (low pressure) into an area where winds are calm or offshore. Offshore winds (easterly for us) blow off the land and out to sea. This actually helps the waves to line up properly and deliver their maximum top to bottom power.
Whilst ideal for people with some surfing experience,, good waves can be as hazardous as bad waves to the unwary.
If the wind is onshore (westerly for us) the sea becomes choppy and the waves become messy and "blown-out". This westerly onshore wind blowing locally can create messy waves all on it's own, we sometimes refer to this as "wind-slop", "mush" or "blown out".
Although perhaps not ideal, going into the water is still possible in these conditions as long as you are careful to recognise and avoid "storm" or "maxed out" conditions.
It goes without saying that you are going to heed advice and warnings present on the beach itself be they notices,flags or given verbally by the lifeguards.
If you are unsure of the conditions and advice is not available it
is better to walk away.
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RIPS
An unbroken wave is a pulse of energy but once it has broken it
is carrying water into the beach. This water must flow back out to sea again and it will
choose the easiest route. Wave and tide action will ensure that a beach is seldom flat.
Waves will break on the high spots first and the lower spots will often become channels
for the "rip".
The smaller the beach and the bigger the waves, the stronger
the rip.
I'LL SAY THAT AGAIN...
The smaller the beach and the bigger the waves, the stronger the rip.
Rips are often used by surfers as a conveyer belt to get "out
the back" but should you be caught in one and not want to go out with it you should
never paddle or swim against it. Use your energy to travel diagonally across the rip to
where the waves are breaking, for waves are water coming in. If you are unable to do this now would be a good time to
raise one arm and try to attract some attention. Try to remain calm and not panic.
UNDERTOW
When the surf is so big the rips can't cope water may return to
sea underneath the breaking waves. When the surf gets to this size on a beach break it is
effectively "maxed-out" to all but the hardcore super-hero surfer (or the
foolish).
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TIDES
The tides in Europe are amongst the biggest in the world. It is
a popular misconception that tides create surf, they do not but they do have an effect on it.
The outgoing tide inhibits the swell and reduces its size. Once the tide turns and starts
to "push" the wave size can increase significantly. If the surf is BIG it may be
prudent to go in "on the drop". Croyde in
particular is a lot more dangerous around low tide. If it's
small and it's waves your after it's better to go in "on the push".
Such a huge tidal range will favour different
"surf-breaks" in different parts of the beach as the swells react to the
changing bottom contours. If you require more specific information about the surf on our
beaches then take our SURF TOUR. You
can also access our three main bathing beaches in any order from the SURFERS MAP.
CONDITIONS SUMMARY
BEFORE entering the water you should have spent time studying
the surf and the beach. You should know where the waves are breaking and where the rips
are. You should know what the tide and weather is doing and the effects these two
variables could have whilst you are in the water. Lastly you should be aware of your own
abilities and have a healthy respect for the power of the sea.
NO FEAR maybe macho but it
actually equals NO SENSE!
Check today's conditions at Croyde on our other site
The author accepts no responsibilities for any accidents or injuries or fatalities which may arise as a result of using the advice given.
This is a another free service from The Little Pink Shop!
lifeguards patrolling flagged swimming area
LIFEGUARD FLAGS
RED &
YELLOW... This is the
Lifeguard patrolled swimming area. There should be no stand-up surfers here. There is no
surfing between the red & yellow flags. (bodyboards excepted).
RED... Often
ignored by hard-core surfers so I guess it means "Beach closed to swimmers and novice
surfers".
BLACK & WHITE... Surfing area flags are quartered
black & white. (Never seen them used in the U.K.)
Do not ignore or argue with the lifeguards - REMEMBER - If you get into trouble, it's them that have to risk their own
lives coming to get you! By disregarding their advice you are endangering their lives too.
PERSONAL SAFETY TIPS
Don't surf alone.
Don't surf under the influence of drink or drugs.
Don't drop in on other peoples waves.
Keep a mobile phone in your car (check for signal) or find out location of nearest
landline phone.
Learn CPR techniques.
Buy (or hire) a good wetsuit, boots, gloves, hat for the
cold water months. Your survival could just depend on it. We can sell or rent you good
quality gear at very competitive prices - but you already knew that! Click here for details.
Large flat beaches produce slower waves, less rips and more room so are better suited to
novices. In N.Devon that's mainly Saunton and Putsborough.
Surfers Check the condition of your leash
regularly. A leash is for convenience and it should not replace your ability to swim.
Check the leash plug in the board is secure. Check the cord, swivels, ties and Velcro.
Renew/repair as necessary. Putting the ankle strap directly on your leg and rolling the
wetsuit down over it reduces the chance of it coming off as the Velcro "ages".
Consider a surf helmet. Not cheap but saves you the
price of a hat!
Join the BSA….. British Surfing Association & get 3rd party insurance.
Join the SAS….. Surfers Against Sewage & help the fight for cleaner seas.
Get a surf lesson with a decent BSA surf instructor will improve your surf/safety
knowledge a great deal. We consider at least one 2 hour (often called "half
day") lesson money well spent as a lot of the lesson will be concerned with your
safety. If you are interested, just contact the shop. Click here for details of Tuition from The Little Pink Shop.
The Little Pink Shop
The author accepts no responsibilities for any accidents or injuries or fatalities which may arise as a result of using the advice given.
This is a another free service from The Little Pink Shop!
THE
"RULES OF THE ROAD"
SURFING ETIQUETTE
This mainly applies to SURFERS
Quite apart from beach safety, Surfing has it’s own
"unwritten" rules of conduct (or etiquette if you prefer).
The first person up and wave riding has right of way. If more than one person are in
dispute of this then it is normally the person nearest the breaking part of the wave that
has the right of way.
In reality other factors can come into play. Every beach etc. has a pecking order. This
can be based on your local pedigree (or lack of it) and your ability (or lack of it) Other
factors may include the size, aggressiveness & sex of your "opponent", even
the brand name on your surfboard & wetsuit can matter. (Local brands preferred!) If
you are from outside the area and a beginner it is safe to assume that in this pecking
order you are pond life until
you can establish some credibility.
Minor squabbles can escalate into
SURF RAGE. A relatively recent
phenononem, surf rage is on the increase. As a novice always err on the side of caution. KEEP AWAY FROM ANYONE UP AND RIDING, even if it means sacrificing yourself to the
meanest part of the wave.
Only attempt to catch waves with no one on them. Keep hold of your surfboard at all times.
You should NEVER let your surfboard fly loose on the leash.
If you must let it go at least check behind you first.
One last thing, Surfing in N.Devon is so popular now that
most surfers have learnt to cope with the droves of beginners in the water reasonably
well. Humbleness and appreciation of your
"beginners" status may well earn you acceptance and even friendship but bragging
about your exploits in a loud voice whilst down the pub and "half-cut" never
will.
The author accepts no responsibilities for any accidents or injuries or fatalities which may arise as a result of using the advice given.
This has been another free service from The Little Pink Shop!
© Croyde Bay Surfing Ltd.
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